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Marbled Sky"
My travels throughout Utah have given me a chance to see many well known ancient Indian Ruins. However, over my years of traveling I somehow missed one of the most photogenic ruins in the entire Southwest. While researching for other ruins I stumbled upon an image of an unusual ruin that was captivating.
This ruin was in fantastic physical condition, but what set it apart from any ruin I had ever seen was the rocky overhang atop the structure. The “ceiling” was an amazing array of orange, tan, black and white colors swirling together into a surreal marbled structure.
After more research I learned I had actually driven by this lonely little ruin over the past several years. North of Valley of the Gods, Utah, it lay along an unmarked dirt road which twists its way along a ridge between two obscure canyons.
As with many dirt roads, many off-shoots lay along the road. Finding the right turn-off was a little tricky, but I had marked my odometer exactly as instructions had stated. Soon, I turned onto the 200ft long outcropping which ended at a small campsite. I walked around, searching for a path that led into an adjoining canyon, but to no avail.
After a few minutes of studying my instructions, I decided to search a little further. Fortunately, I walked a little deeper into the brush and found a definite trail. If this was the correct path, it would then be just 0.7 miles to the canyon rim. So with my trusty GPS, I gathered my camera gear and hiked into the unknown. Sure enough, I came upon an opening with a steep trail descending one hundred feet into the canyon below.
At this point I had no doubt I was on the right track. My excitement built to an almost childish level. After entering the canyon, I marked new coordinates on my GPS. It would have been easy to miss the “entrance” back up the canyon wall. I had about three miles of hiking ahead of me and it was already 8:30 am. If I arrived too late, direct sunlight would illuminate the structure and ruin any chance of a well-lit photograph.
Winter foliage was thin so navigating the trees and rocks took less effort. I tracked my GPS position on a topo map. One wrong turn could lead to hours of retracing my location. I knew to keep to the right, but one person’s definition of what constitutes a “trail” and another’s differ greatly. I was to look for a tall hoodoo-like structure about ¾ of the way along the canyon. The walls were getting progressively higher as I trekked. Many structures appeared as hoodoos (tall thin pieces of soft rock with hard capstones).
Over an hour had passed since entering the canyon. I began to have location doubts, but my trusty GPS indicated I had only traveled about 2 miles… so I scouted the northern canyon overhangs for any signs of pueblo ruins. Time was critical… so I quickened my pace. A few small structures became evident, but none possessed a “roof”. Then, about ¼ mile away and 150 feet up the canyon face I saw my objective. This ruin was truly magnificent!
The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) does not make public the location of any ruins. (For good reason; vandalism is sadly an ever present danger.) There are no trails leading to this structure. The cliff face is too steep for a straight assent, so I start my zigzag approach onto the cliff face. About halfway up the canyon walls, I notice the structure was relatively small. Most people would need to crouch down or risk hitting their head on the beautiful ceiling. Once at the ruin, I carefully unpacked equipment so it would not accidentally roll down the cliff face. What was the best photographic angle?
Any camera angle would make for a fine photo, but I wanted to make an image with maximum impact. Only one position offered this impact. The best shot would be if I located just along a 15ft vertical drop-off prior to the 150 ft cliff face. There was room for one tripod and little else. To extend the “reach” of my wide-angle lens I could have kept the tripod legs retracted, however I did not like the view through my viewfinder. So I extended my tripod legs and stood at the drop-off. Now, I could keep the camera further back from the ruin and shoot as much of the ceiling as possible. I really liked what I saw.
Over the next two hours, I shot the structure at various angles and camera settings. Every fifteen minutes, I would take a few shots since light would change in subtle ways as it progressed up the canyon wall. Finally, at around 11:30 am my session was over. As with many of my favorite photo locations, it was difficult to leave this site. I have never understood how people can spend up to two days getting to a location and then view it for sometimes only minutes. I feel compelled to spend as much time as possible with my new found treasure.
The “Marbled Sky” image was actually taken during my second outing, late spring, 2006. After studying my first pictures I wanted to capture more of the amazing ceiling in my photograph as it, not the ruin, makes the shot. This time the hike looked completely different. The overgrowth was amazing along the canyon floor and I felt like Indiana Jones as I foraged my way into the canyon. However, once there it felt like I had never left. Mesa Verde is beautiful, but the hordes of people and man made trails will never give one the sense of intimacy that is found in this location.
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